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Greenland Tourism's Project Leif 2000
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"The best thing: we aren't rowing"
Log Date: September 1, 1998
Author: Erik Larsen
Lat/Lon: 57.40 N, 61.30 W
Course: 140
Speed: 5 knots
Weather: Overcast, wind NW at 10 knots
Sightings: Icebergs
Click on the pictures below to view enlargements.
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The Dane and the Captain in full battle dress
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From Erik:
Amazing, wow, beautiful, terrific, fantastic, impressive, magnificent, etc.! Strangely,
none of these superlatives were used this morning when we weighed anchor. Well, the
scenery didn't call for such outbursts, since we could barely see 100 yards. Neither
did the wildlife, since it was absent. But we sailed off with a NORTHERLY wind filling
our sail. This was what we had waited for for two weeks. Finally it was here.
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Papa Smurf and Festus
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The excitement was not expressed verbally - actually, the silence aboard Snorri
this morning was as heavy as the mist. The look on people's faces gave it away, though.
Everybody was thinking: how long will this last? Is it also blowing from the north
offshore?
The excitement broke into disappointment very quickly, as it turned out we had to
head upwind to get out between two islands in order to get offshore. Well, we rowed
- in silence. But then when we rounded the last cape, the wind gradually picked up
- from the north. It was a magical moment. We could hardly believe it, or rather,
we didn't dare to. Now, six hours later, we are sailing southeast, pointing right
toward our final goal - and though far away, it seems much nearer now. The best thing:
we aren't rowing.
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At last, underway, under sail
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Now you might find that we are being superstitious, and we are. As an old sailor's
rule remonstrates: don't whistle or the storms will blow. So have we made our rules
of caution.
Basically, we are trying to make sense from the randomness that tosses us around.
Of course, we wouldn't be so sensitive if it didn't mean so much to us. But at sea
and traveling, two things matter much: weather and miles. And the next two things
that make weather and miles come together as a journey is food and good spirit. We
do pretty good on the last one, but food is becoming all the more uniform as provisions
are dwindling. Everybody tries to avoid the fact that for the last part of the voyage
we will have to live off beans and lentil soup plus oatmeal, and worst of all, there
will be no hot chocolate.
Quote of the day, from Homer: "I just feel so useless, now that there's flour
on the boat." (Homer was king of bannock bread.)
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