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Greenland Tourism's Project Leif 2000
Finding Bluebell Island in the fog
Log Date: August 30, 1998
Author: John Gardner
Lat/Lon: N 58.30, W 62.35
Location: At anchor north of Bluebell Island
Weather: Rain & fog
Sightings: Fog
Click on the pictures below to view enlargements.
From John G.:
A few days ago (8-28-98) we thought we could save time and pass between Shuldham
Island and Big Island, to the east of Hardy Island, and anchor on the south side
of Big Island. At mid-tide we found ourselves going aground, made a hasty retreat
north, and dropped the hook. Yesterday we practically sailed off our anchor, using
the oars only to turn ourselves around. We had a beautiful early morning sail downwind
(to the north) among majestic icebergs.
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Terry was not amused when I asked if we could sail through the iceberg (the piece on the left is bigger than Snorri) |
Our visiting photographers unfortunately missed our early start, as they were in
the anchorage where we had hoped to be. They joined us as we rowed in the lee of
Big Island in preparation for our first long tack east-northeast amidst the fog.
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Hodding and Homer dig for cameras as we approach one of nature's masterpieces |
Our friends left us later that morning, as the fog thickened offshore. They had brought
us our first taste of civilization in four weeks, and left us many treats including
fresh bagels, M&Ms, tobacco, alcohol, and newspapers (which is especially nice
due to our diminishing supply of TP). Their guide also gave us a gift of fresh fruit
and bread, and the haunch of a caribou.
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Check out the caribou hindquarter on our starboard stern |
Sailing in the cloak of fog called for an attentive bow watch, and a half-hour was
soon the limit on that chilly, nasty job. After a close tack in among the rocky cliffs
just northwest of Cape Uivuk, we spotted our anchorage in the lee of Bluebell Island.
Another tack in the dense fog, with all hands lively, and we tore towards the jutting
point. The sail came down as the lead line sounded at two fathoms. With the rudder
hard over, we skirted around the rocky point and coasted to our anchorage in seven
fathoms. A little while later found us with a line ashore Bluebell Island and a long
anchor line to the north, which we can pull ourselves up to in the event Mother Nature
wishes to grace our presence with a north wind.
Not all anchorages allow for a sound sleep, or maybe the events of the day kept me
up. Either way, I found myself wide awake at midnight. Terry was just coming off
watch and came forward to wake Erik for his turn at keeping an eye out for wind,
and to admire the northern lights. Erik was sleeping beside me when Terry came peering
forward, trying to distinguish the sleeping bodies.
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John A. and Erik share bow watch early |
I couldn't resist the temptation. I sat bolt upright with a growl directly in front
of him. In the ensuing silence, I wasn't sure if I scared him, but he assured me
I did. I wish I could have seen his face!
We are sleeping in this morning, as fog, rain and southerly winds continue. John
Abbott and Homer got up to make us pancakes and eggs for a Sunday morning breakfast-in-bed
treat. Terry headed for the island's peak to check the wind, with promises to me
for revenge when I least expect it.